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Introduction | Design Options | Making Your Shift

Design Options

First you need to decide on what style of shift you'd like to make, and this can vary quite a bit. The three parts are the body, the sleeves and the neckline, and I've illustrated the various options for these below. Once you've decided, click on the link at the bottom of this page, or on the bar just above, to get to the making instructions. Alternatively, there's a link after each set of pictures to take you directly to the corresponding section of the guide.

The body

The body of the shift can vary in fullness from quite tight (like the one in what to wear) to much fuller. I like mine relatively snug as otherwise the fabric just bunches up under the bodice and can be a nuisance. The length varies from below the knee to mid-calf.

Note for men: Your shirt should be mid-thigh length.

Head to the body sewing instructions.

The Sleeves

Your shift can have:

tight sleeves with a neat hem, like the one shown in what to wear ,

fuller sleeves gathered to a cuff,

or full sleeves with a ruffled cuff.

It's sensible to make your sleeves wide enough to roll up out of the way when you're working, but not so full that they get in the way.

Note for men: Your shirt should have the sleeves gathered to a cuff, with or without a ruffle.

Head to the sleeves sewing instructions.

The Neckline

Necklines can be:

square,

with a narrow collar,

or with a narrow ruffle. This one's in bad need of un-wrinkling.

Whatever you do you should not put a drawstring at neck or wrists.

High-neck shifts are warmer (keeps the wind of the chest) but a little more complex and time-consuming to make. Some shift styles are more appropriate for some years than others. Broadly, square necked shifts are most old-fashioned, and those with ruffles are fashionable for the latter half of the sixteenth century. You'll find more detailed information for this year in the clothing overview section.

If you're not sure what style you'd like then get started, anyway. You don't put collar and cuffs on until relatively late in sewing the shift, so you don't need to make up your mind yet.

Note for men: a square neckline it not acceptable for you. Your shirt should have a collar, with or without a ruffle.

Head to the collar sewing instructions.


Onto making your shift.

The Shift | The Petticoat | The Kirtle | The Sleeves | The Coif


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